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No visit to Mumbai is complete without a foray into the bazaars of Kalbadevi, north of Crawford Market. The narrow lanes of this predominantly Muslim area are hemmed in by laundry-draped chawls, and a seething mass of people bring Mumbai's traffic to a standstill. It's in complete contrast to the relative space, orderliness and modernity of South Mumbai.

Entire streets are often devoted to a single product since caste traditions remain stronger than capitalist marketing theories; this can make browsing a strange experience as you suddenly encounter shop after shop selling bathroom fittings or copper pipes. Some people consider the bazaars a spectacle rather than a place to shop, but it's a lot more fun doing both. The main areas are Zaveri Bazaar (jewellery), Mangaldas Market (cloth), Dhabu St (leather goods) and Chor Bazaar (Mumbai's 'thieves' market'). You can pick up anything at Chor Bazaar from car parts to Victorian porcelain - the traditional joke is that it was probably stolen from you in the first place. Mutton St in Chor Bazaar specialises in antiques, ingenious reproductions and miscellaneous junk. Don't place too much faith in authenticity or the lifespan of objects with mechanical parts.

Apart from the shopping opportunities, this area is also home to the Jama Masjid and the Mumbadevi Temple dedicated to the patron goddess of the island's original Koli inhabitants. It's best to venture into the bazaars without a clear destination in mind and just wander aimlessly until you've had enough.


Crawford Market

The colourful indoor Crawford Market or Phule Market, north of VT, is the last outpost of British Bombay before the tumult of the central bazaars begins. It used to be the city's wholesale produce market before this was strategically moved to New Bombay. Today it's where central Mumbai goes shopping for its fruits, vegetables and meat.

Bas reliefs by Rudyard Kipling's father, Lockwood Kipling, adorn the Norman-Gothic exterior, and an ornate fountain he designed stands buried beneath old fruit boxes at the market's centre. The animal market at the rear sells everything from sausage dogs to cockatoos, most kept in cruelly small cages. The meat market is for the brave only, though it's one of the few places you can expect to be accosted and asked if you want to buy a bloody goat's head. Just south of the market is the J J School of Art, where Rudyard Kipling was born in 1865.

















Shoes & Leather

Name Address
Bata Colaba Causeway
Carona Opp. V.T. Station
Dawood Flora Fountain
Empire Shoes Colaba
Lords Footwear Colaba Causeway
Shoe Bazar Grant Road


















Gold & Jewellery

Name Address
A.K. Motiwala Turner Road, Bandra (West)
Danabhai Jewellers S.V. Road, Santacruz
Devraj Jewellers Hill Road, Bandra (West)
Genieve Orsini Jewels Oberoi Hotel, Nariman Point
Kewalram Ghanshyamdas Popley Turner Road, Bandra (West)
Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri Zaveri Bazar, Opera House & Santacruz
Valchand Jewellers Hill Road, Bandra (West)





















Readymade Garments

Name Address
Ankur Collection S.V. Road, Santacruz (W)
Benetton Kanchanjunga, Peddar Road
Cambridge Kartar Bhavan, Colaba
Double Bull Colaba & Andheri
Little Kingdom Bhulabhai Desai Road
Roopam Near Crawford Market
Rose N Boss D.N. Road, Fort
Sheetal Crawford Market, & Grant Road
Van Huesan Linking Road, Bandra (West)
Weekender Khar & Breach Candy



















Silk & Sarees

Name Address
Banaras Silk House Dadar T.T.
Kala Niketan Queens Road & Juhu Scheme
Paaneri Dadar (West) & Andheri (W)
Roopmilan Queens Road




















Departmental Stores

Name Address
Akbarallys Veer Nariman Rd. & S.V. Road Santacruz (W)
Amarsons Collections Bhulabhai Desai Road
Asiatic Churchgate
Benzer Bhulabhai Desai Road
Bombay Swadeshi Sir P.M. Road
Shopper's Stop S.V. Road, Andheri (West)
World Trade Centre Cuffe Parade


















Art, Antiques & Handicrafts

Name Address
Anokhee Embassy Centre, Nariman Point
Central Cottage Industries Emporium Shivaji Maharaj Marg, Nr. Gateway of India
Cooptex Ghanekar Marg, Prabhadevi
Cottage Arts Oberoi Towers, Nariman Point
Contemporary Arts & Crafts Supreme Shopping Centre, Juhu & Napean Sea Rd.
Gift & Things Bombay Swadeshi Stores, P.M. Rd.
House of Indian Handicrafts Sea Gull, Bhulabhai Desai Road
Jewelkraft World Trade Centre
Khadi Emporium D.N. Road
Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan Irani Bldg., Sayani Road
U.P. Handlooms Behind Regal Cinema, Colaba




















Furniture & Interior

Name Address
Bharat Furnishing Kemps Corner, Cumbala Hill
Furniture Concepts S.V. Road, Santacruz (W)
Gadre Agencies Opp. Topiwala Cinema, Goregaon
Indoors Nagri Building, Fort
Kapoor Lampshades Co. 145, M.G. Road, Fort
The Living Room Nr. St. Michael Church, Mahim




















Name Address
American Dryfruit Stores Cawasji Patel Street, Nr. Flora Fountain
Brijwasi Matunga
Kamaths Brijwasi Hill Road, Bandra (West)
Parsi Dairy Farm Dadar T.T. & Princess Street
Punjabi Ghasitaram Halwai Karachiwala Jasmine Mill Compound & Sion






















Name Address
Lakhani Book Depot Girgaum
Nalanda Book & Record Shop Taj intercontinental, Apollo Bunder
Universal Book Corporation Jer Mahal, Dhobi Talao